Lunigiana Towns and Villages
Pontremoli is the northern gateway of Lunigiana. An ancient town, Pontremoli developed with the expansion of its central castle. The buildings are positioned in such a way that they seem to defend the historical centre. A town of slate and terracotta roofed houses, palaces, towers and many attractive stone bridges. Wherever you look in Pontremoli there is a multitude of balconies either overlooking the two rivers of the town or one of the narrow streets and piazzas. The town first appears in history books in 990 and has passed through turbulent times during the struggles of the middle ages. The old walls of the town called ‘Cacciaguerra’ were built by Castruccio Castracani of Lucca in 1322 to separate two rival groups. Thankfully in present times the people of Pontremoli live in harmony with each other. One of the most remarkable buildings in the town is the Castello which dates back from the tenth century and is situated on the top of a hill above the Cisa main road. Recently restored, the castle now houses the Museo Archeologico with its unique collection of menhirs, prehistoric and bronze age stone monuments. The statues were discovered in the surrounding regions of Lunigiana, some chiselled in human form as warriors dating from 1500b.c. and are said to hold magical powers. The borough hosts numerous monuments such as the Cathedral of S. Maria del Popolo (seventeenth century) with its baroque interior, the bell tower Campanone, the Church of S. Colombano, the Church of S. Pietro with its Labyrinth of the Pilgrim sculpture and the Church of SS. Annunziata, built in 1471. The Caveau del Teatro in the centre faces the baroque work-of-art of the Church of Nostra Donna and of the Teatro della Rosa, one of the first theatres in Italy recently restored and full of rich baroque interiors. The town is particularly famous today as a centre for the book trade fair awarding the Bancarella literary prize held once a year on the third Sunday of July. The town hosts a selection of bars, restaurants and shops. Around the Piazza della Repubblica and the cathedral are several sixteenth and seventeenth century palazzi where the local life in Pontremoli centres. This bustling heart of the town is home to a host of newspaper vendors, weekly markets, cafès, ice cream parlours and is a favourite meeting place for locals. Mulazzo is about a 15 minute drive from Pontremoli. This hamlet of Byzantine origins was once the headquarters of the important Malaspina family which had territories to the west of the river Magra. Their arms are emblazoned over a fine arched doorway which guards the steps up to the town. Fragments of the original walls are left in the upper part of the town where the narrow streets widen into charming little squares which are overlooked by cleverly crafted loggias. "The Tower of Dante" so named as Dante Alighieri was once hosted here by the Malaspina family.
Villafranca acts primarily as a convenient town on the main valley road to Pontremoli. Although initially as you drive through it seems to lack elegance, most of the old centre is hidden behind the main road. It is has some notable restaurants and local amenities including banks and supermarkets and hosts a weekly street market. The nearby medieval village of Filetto, is a delightful, totally symmetrical, square walled village with a tower a each corner. Almost every street is linked by overhead stone passages or bridges. Originally a defensive structure, it is now quite cosy with cats snoozing in corners and village women sitting on the steps sewing and catching up on the village gossip.
Filetto has two piazzas overlooked by the palaces. Gathered at the centre of a wide lowland and a dense forest of chestnut trees, the centre of this small settlement represents a precious jewel of Byzantine architecture, historically recorded as a military garrison with angular towers, structures still clearly identifiable today in this village. The Ariberti palace overlooking the church square seems to return to its ancient splendour in the month of August when it opens its large doors to play host to exhibitions and antiques organised when Filetto hosts its annual medieval festival. This colourful and traditional festival includes processions in costume accompanied by drums and trumpets, displays of archery, traditional flag throwing and open air theatre. All the streets are decorated and appear untouched by time. Long banqueting tables are laid to enjoy ancient and traditional recipes. Bagnone is a large attractive village of Renaissance palaces, wide streets and cool shady arcades with many little bars, cafès and restaurants. A honeycomb of village houses, arches and passageways leads down to tiny gardens and the picturesque river bank and waterfalls below the lively squares of Bagnone. The town has a rich past under the rule of the Malaspina family, then passed to the Florentines and became a Ligurian republic in 1796. The various influences of these diverse rulers can be seen throughout Bagnone. The 15th Century heart of Bagnone, the Castello di Bagnone, is clustered on a hillside above the village with a cylindrical tower and a fine 15th century bell tower. From Bagnone it is easy to reach Castiglione di Terziere. The castle of this historic village is now restored to new life with respectful architectural and great attention to detail by the humanist Loris Jacopo Bonomi. The castle holds an extraordinary library dedicated to the history of the Florentines and Lunigiana as well as Italian literature and dominates the village with ancient stone houses spread out below.
Fivizano, an aristocratic town in the east of Lunigiana that experienced a wealth of prosperity under the Medici family of Florence. After the domain of the Malaspina it became part of the Florentine Republic. Fivizzano is a bustling and attractive market town full of elegant Renaissance palaces and with a distinct air of pride in itself. The young people of Fivizano are prominent in the movement to revive their folk traditions and they participate in colourful flag waving performances, dancing and mock duels. They travel all over Tuscany giving demonstrations. A notable mention is the Piazza Medicea, an elegant piazza with a central fountain. The principal cafè offers some of the best pastries available for those with a sweet tooth. The town also has a musical heritage attracting international performers during its annual folk music festival. The nearby enchanting castle of Verrucula, is a completely fortified settlement on the banks of the river which has been superbly restored. Little red roofed houses and narrow medieval streets cluster around the fortified square keep. Geraniums spill from window boxes and gardens are full of courgettes, beans and tomatoes planted right down to the river’s edge. The castle is thought to date back to the 11th century together with its peaceful church with arched loggia and can be visited at certain periods during the year. Travelling further up the valley, Cerreto offers a range of activities including biking, walking and fishing also operating as a small yet popular ski resort during the winter with a range of shops, bars and hotels.
Equi Terme is an ancient hamlet set at the foot of the Apuane Alps. Cross over Equi and you will arrive at the ancient route that leads to the marble quarries. This popular spa town has a slight scent of sulphur and its restorative waters are claimed to have healing powers. Do not expect a luxury resort as after all it is set in the heart of a medieval village but treatments are offered in the spa. If you follow the path through the old village tucked into the mountain gorge you will reach a bridge, a waterfall and the high roofed caves called Buca del Cane, where remains of Palaeolithic men and dogs were found. Guided tours of the caves are available at certain times of the year. Nearby Vinca is renowned for its famous bread. Further down the valley you find Casola, a medieval village that experienced its greatest commercial prosperity during the middle ages. Many of the famous stelle statues were found in this area dating back to the Neolithic and Iron age. Today it represents a sleepy traditional country town with a definite relaxed approach to life. The quaint historic centre is very popular with tourists wanting to relax and simply enjoy the wonderful scenery. Many guided walks are organised from Casola.
Comano is immersed in breathtaking scenery and is therefore an important base for walking with many marked routes taking in flowing rivers, springs, pastures and mountain tracks. With a newly completed arena Comano hosts an annual horse festival held in September. Nearby is the Castello of Comano, a ruined tower surrounded by a tiny farming community. The people of Comano are proud and very welcoming to visitors. A place very much unaffected by time where ducks and chickens wander the streets to the steps of the tower. The territory of Comano is included in the Tuscan Emilian national park with the aim of protecting the richness of the environment. Comano’s treasure is represented by its forest and woods of chestnut trees renowned throughout the region. Chestnuts have been an important addition to recipes for hundreds of years, many that haven’t changed to this day. The nearby village of Crespiano has one of the best local restaurants in the area, award winning for its traditional local food and the prices are incredibly reasonable.
Licciana Nardi In this region you can admire castles, parish churches, tower houses, hamlets and fortified control walls of the Malaspina family, all dating back to the same period. The old street is rich in decorated portals, picturesque facades decorated with window boxes overflowing with colour. An 11th Century fortified town with much of the ancient town wall still visible and narrow passageways running through immensely thick walls in to the village. In the Piazza del Municipo the imposing 16th Century castle dominates the square and is joined to the graceful baroque church by a small bridge spanning the entrance to the village. An autumn festival noteworthy of a mention is the chestnut fair held during October. The main street is decorated with chestnut branches, mock medieval shops fronts, old cantinas that open as rustic watering holes and the main piazzas feature large open fires for roasting this important ingredient. The local residents dress up in costume for the event to enhance the atmosphere. You may also see the odd donkey strolling through the village. Towering over Licciana Nardi is Bastia, a good base for walking, with high meadows and wonderful views out to the Ligurian coast. Bastia is built around the castle which is now privately owned. Monti is another village near Licciana Nardi, again a fortified village with a charming castle. The castle has been well restored and today is used as a summer residence by a surviving member of the Malaspina family. Below the old village, the new part of the town is developing and although not particularly historic, offers a good selection of local amenities. The Comune of Licciana Nardi encompasses many medieval hillside hamlets, protected as historic centres and most of which are very much alive today. Tavernelle from the road may seem quite bland on the surface however it is necessary to stop and walk into the old centre to understand the charm of this settlement. Once an important trade route leading from Parma, Tavernelle was a popular stopping point, bustling with Locande and guest houses. Taponecco and Varano are picturesque examples of ’borgo’ villages with narrow cobbled lanes and stone houses connected by arches and passageways. Villagers are very welcoming of new faces and go about their daily routine as if nothing has changed for centuries. Mostly these are farming communities however in recent years they have attracted buyers from Milan and other parts of Europe looking for a unique and unspoilt place to spend their holidays. Many houses have been restored to strict regulations to preserve the heritage of these villages.
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