Toscana Rustica

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Area Guide

Lunigiana Introduction

Lunigiana is a quiet corner of Tuscany where traditions are strong, hospitality generous and the pace of life relaxed. Defined by the Appenine mountain range to the east (often referred to as the ‘back bone of Italy’), the world famous Carrara marble Apuane mountains to the south and the Ligurian Riviera to the west. For city dwellers, an ideal place to relax and get away from the more widely travelled destinations and an escape from the rush of modern life. Often called the ‘land of the moon’ or ‘land of a hundred castles’. Wherever you look in Lunigiana, magical outlines of castles and fortified villages can be seen. Most of these were built by the Malaspina family to defend the strategic position of this ancient land. Today many have been restored to their former glory, while others remain romantic ruins. Relax, unwind and explore this breathtaking countryside. Scattered with enchanting hillside villages, lush green hillsides covered in olive groves, leading to the foothills of the mountains with hidden meadows in flower, chestnut woods and eventually shady pine forests. A meeting point for various types of plants of the Mediterranean and even alpine regions. Paths lead through narrow village streets with stone houses rendered beautiful with simplicity. For walkers this is a paradise offering some of the most dramatic landscape in Tuscany.

All the seasons of Lunigiana have their own special character. During spring the hillsides overflow with wild flowers, trees awaken in blossom and fields blaze with poppies. During summer the temperature rises offering a superb climate that remains comfortable where the cool air from the mountains and the warm fresh air from the sea meet. Towns and villages liven with the chatter from the piazza bars, whether it be elderly men playing cards, young people parading the latest Italian fashions or tourists enjoying an aperitivo. The season also hosts many medieval events where village streets are lit by candle light to enhance the atmosphere of live performances, street entertainers dress in costume and cantinas open selling local handicrafts. In the Autumn there is the important ritual of the chestnut harvest, together with the hunt for porcini - the most highly prized variety of Italian mushroom. Against the soft autumn light the hillsides turn from green to the most amazing colours of aubergine and amber. In Winter, whilst it would be difficult to sunbathe, the sun still shines and the skies are often blue despite the dip in temperature, and with the winter comes skiing. There are three locations for this: Prato Spilla high above the Taverone valley, Zum-Zeri in the western part of the Lunigiana and the third centre at Cerreto. Whilst these areas could not be described as professional resorts they still offer an enjoyable days skiing for all levels of ability. Seasonal festivals are held in the villages throughout the year to celebrate the harvests, with simple recipes evolved through the centuries. Long tables are laid for locals and visitors to enjoy the local recipes made lovingly by the villagers. In reality every one helps out, a real traditional affair the sort of thing seen on advertisement for olive oil! The Lunigianese people offer a warm welcome to new faces whether it be in mere curiosity or in the joy that people choose to visit their valley. Each village has its own unique character and sounds. The bells of the cattle in the nearby meadows, the shout of the bread man arriving, the ladies catching up on the local gossip and of course the chime of the bell tower. People live in complete harmony where the simple things are important, content in the quiet knowledge that life is good here!